Ola Niña is just getting out of the water, so to speak! We are in the process of collecting photographs, organising interviews and popping up on a new wave.
It’s as good a time as ever to share a surf story.
It had been a while between surfs and I had driven down after a week of uni and work. It was Sunday, I had an exam the next day and I desperately needed to study. What was meant to be an hour of surf and relaxation, turned into 4 hours of glassy, perfect 3 footers.
You don’t need a 6ft wave to have an amazing surf. Just something big enough to ride.
The sun was well and truly setting by the time I admitted I needed to get out of the ocean. The truth was, I didn’t want to face the thought of studying. So I paddled out again and again, until my arms felt like rubber and my neck was stiff. The sun was dipping steadily lower and the sky turned from light blue, to red, to purple. Then I realised I could see the stars. It was an amazing feeling, looking above me as the first stars winked into existence.
What wasn’t so amazing was looking behind me at the inky black horizon and not knowing when the next wave was coming! As I limped out of the water my feet cut to ribbons on rocks I couldn’t see. I was still stoked that I had surfed under the stars and didn’t worry too much about my poor cut feet. It wasn’t until later that a friend mentioned:
“But that’s perfect shark feeding time!”
It is a dream of mine to night surf properly…I watched this video recently of surfers using neons to surf at night for a Strongbow promotion. It looks amazing.
Have you ever stayed in the water so long the sun went down?